Saturday, August 21, 2010

Day 1: lost and found in Tokyo

Mixing my share of germs from the long-haul flight with the cushioned seat. Connexion between human and things is always so intimate.
A LCD display of the N'EX–Tokyo route

A non-smoking waiting room at the Narita JR platform. A bit counter-intuitive, it's like a designated non-smoking area in Paris.
The exterior body of N'EX (Narita Express) operated by JR

This is not the first time I've been to Tokyo, nor the first time I was on a trans-atlantic plane. I know the routine, I know what's there to see in Tokyo. But deep down it felt different. I was more solitary this time. Yes I traveled by myself to Tokyo which is a bit sad even with the justification of participation in a major conference. The contrast of my solitude with other Chinese-speaking travelers (either come in groups or as couples) draws my attention to the broader circumference for fellow lone travelers: the physical landscape of urban Tokyo and the virtual community centered around this urban metropolis. It's all about making connection, to feel (or fool yourself) that you are connecting with the footprints and footprinters along the pathway.

I arrived at Narita airport after the +10-hour flight from Phoenix. My indolence coupled with my ex's incompetence resulted in a lack of planning and an unnecessary overspent budget in my visit to Tokyo. This time I am on my own so I rely heavily on the information shared by fellow bloggers and travel writers. I did not take limousine bus from Narita airport to Tokyo, which is commonly perceived as the most convenient means of airport transportation. Several sources point to a more economical route introduced by JR (Japanese Railway) for foreigners just a month before my trip (July 2010). Some indispensable background knowledge before submerging yourself in the byzantine subway networks in Tokyo. There are a number of subway companies operating different routes and lines in Tokyo. JR is the national subway enterprise in Japan (not only in Tokyo). But there are non-JR subway companies competing and cooperating with JR in Tokyo. For the Narita–Tokyo route, JR offered a round-trip package with N'EX + a pre-loaded 1500¥ suica card (a rechargeable and refundable pre-paid smart card) for just 5500¥! Now this means nothing to travelers unless you compare it with the cost of taking the limousine bus. A round-trip bus ticket from Narita to Tokyo costs 6000¥/person, without a complimentary suica worth 1500¥!Suica is very useful for budget travelers in Tokyo. With a swipe of the card above the sensor, you can take all subway lines (JR and non-JR routes), bus, and shop at the underground station streets. Seriously, why waste an extra 2000¥ to take bus and more time on potential traffic congestion when you can get so much more underground?

While I found my underway to Tokyo, I was lost in the above-ground Shinjuku. Shinjuku is a black-spot for misplacement due to the multi-connected exits near this point. There are at least 4 exits pointing to different directions under the generic rubric of "Shinjuku": Seibu-Shinjuku, Shinjuku JR, Shinjuku-sanchome, Shinjuku nishiguchi, not to mention the farther apart Higashi-Shinjuku. So if you only go by "Shinjuku", it's difficult if not impossible to find your way along the meandering streets with densely populated and motorized urban surroundings. I am staying at Tokyo inn near Kabuki-cho, which I assumed is situated in the Kabuki town. My assumption is partly correct. It is part of the broader area known to tourists as the Kabuki town, but the epithet of a "town" implies that it is more than just a tourist spot. The location of the inn is off the hustle and bustle of Kabuki avenue, close to Higashi-Shinjuku. I dragged my luggage with an anti-G force handle bar uphill, across the garden shrine, the reputed Mutekiya ramen restaurant, and streaked as fast as I can through the gigolo clubs on my way to orient myself in the puzzling pixelgram of Shinjuku. A friendly young lady very helpfully walked with me to the inn which is very much appreciated. Kind of feel bad for having her walked up a hill in her stiletto heels though >_<


My day of lost-and-found in Tokyo ends with a (deserved) self-indulged dining trip at Mutekiya. Honestly, the ramen is a bit too salty for my inept tastebuds, but I will acclimatize my tastebuds in the next couple days for the amount of salt and oil in Japanese food. I would still give it an "oishi desu" but 900¥/bowl is bit over-rated.明日は別の日"です!

Tonkotsu ramen served at Mutekiya 麵屋無敵家


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